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Whelping suppliesBoxers belonging to the domesticated canine species often require human intervention during whelping and most certainly need loving human supervision. Presence of a skilled breeder during the whelping can make a big difference in the outcome of the process. Emerging puppies need to be dried and cleaned and sometimes revived if their journey to the outside world was difficult or took more time than usual. For those wishing to learn how to assist the whelping bitch efficiently there are many good books available, however very few of them go into detail when it comes to the list of supplies a breeder must have on hand when preparing to deliver the litter.

I am often asked by less experienced breeders to assist in whelping their bitches and I often face the situation novices seldom know the list of essentials that must be prepared in advance for the process. Sometimes it is only when the first puppy arrives, enclosed in sack and soaked in fluids that the breeder's family starts their frantic search for something to dry the puppy with. I have heard of Pierre Cardin pajamas being used for this purpose if they happen to be in the way of a panicky first time breeder, and oh I should definitely not get started about the items newbies use for cutting the umbilical cord of that first born puppy! Under such circumstances a part of the litter can be lost solely because the assistance was not provided in time.

In our kennel, we always have a checklist of supplies and we actually do go by the list, checking off items as we place them in the whelping room (which at other times is known as our bedroom). This ensures we are fully ready for those upcoming arrivals. We hope that our illustrated checklist below will be useful for the novice breeders. This list is quite extensive, so we divided it into six parts grouping the items into the categories of equipment, blankets, medications, cleaning products, essential extras and nonessential extras. Acquiring all of these items will probably run over a one thousand Euro, but nobody had promised that breeding was going to be easy or cheap! Some of the items can be reused with the following litters, and some will have to be purchased again for each upcoming litter.

Main hardware
Boxer bitch in need of whelping
Pregnant Boxer bitch
You will obviously need a pregnant Boxer bitch to begin with! :) Start assembling your whelping kit right after her pregnancy is confirmed. The bitch must be moved to the whelping room at least two weeks before the first due date to get her accustomed to the whelping box. If everything is arranged properly and with the bitch's needs in mind, by the time whelping approaches, she should have the idea that the box is the best place to have her puppies - not under the porch or on your bed. Your whelping supplies should be fully set and ready one week before the first due date - some pregnancies end at day 56 post-breeding.
Whelping box
Whelping box for Boxer dogs
This is an essential piece of equipment. While some of the toy breeds can successfully raise their puppies in a shoebox, Boxers require properly made and assembled whelping box. The best whelping boxes are made of wood and are stained or painted to make cleaning easier and to prevent bacteria from setting in the pores of the wood. Plywood is not the best material for a whelping box - most plywood panels are made with the use of formaldehyde, a toxic substance that can be dangerous to the health of the dam and the puppies. The whelping box can be purchased, ordered or made at home.
Whelping box details
Wooden whelping box
For Boxers, the size of the box must be at least 100 cm by 100 cm. The box above is 120 cm by 120 cm and is 30 cm high. The height of the box should be sufficient to keep the puppies from getting out of the box, yet the dam must be able to get in and out easily. This box is made of solid wood panels, double coated with child-safe wood polish and has a 10 cm wide safeguard rail placed 10 cm off the box floor - our 53 cm tall Chiara's newborns are normally small. For larger bitches a 15 cm wide rail 15 cm off the floor is a better idea. Safeguard rail is important as it helps prevent the puppies from getting sat on by their mother.
Whelping box positioning
Whelping box fenced in
It is the best to position your whelping box in the corner of the room - this prevents drafts and helps the bitch feel more secure. Make sure you do not put the box near the heater or furnace openings in the winter, and do not position it right in front of the door or window. If you have several dogs, either prevent them from entering the room where the pregnant bitch is housed or put an x-pen around the box - pregnant and nursing Boxers often become very aggressive towards other dogs. The x-pen should not exceed 1m in height as you must be able to bend over it and reach the floor of the box easily.

Heat source
Infrared lamp
Newborn puppies have very little ability to control their bodies' temperature and depend on external heat sources to keep themselves warm. Use either a heat pad under the blanket in the box making sure all the wiring is placed out of the dogs' reach or hang an infrared lamp above the whelping box. When using the lamp, put it to the side of the box leaving at least one cooler corner - the dam will then have a chance to lay there should she start getting overheated. The distance between the floor of the box and the lamp should be at least 100 cm. It is useful to have the lamp set up on such way that enables you to change the height and thus the temperature inside the box. We do not use external heat sources if the litter is born during warm months of the year, but we do cover the box with a heavy flannel linen to help the brood stay warm - they create their own microclimate in the nest and are quite comfortable.

Thermometer for whelping box
We use a digital thermometer which also shows the humidity level in our whelping box. This piece of equipment is often used in electronics manufacturing. It measures in both Celsius and Fahrenheit and is very reliable. Optimal room temperature for young Boxer puppies is anywhere between +25 and +28 C with optimal humidity ranging from 55% to 70%. Don't forget that the humidity level the devise shows will be higher if the bitch slobbers on it or if the puppy manages to pee on it, so keep it dry. Place your thermometer on the floor of the box and check it frequently. Room temperature of +17 C can feel pretty comfortable to you and even to the bitch, but young puppies will most likely become chilled especially if they are left alone in the box. To control the humidity level we use several bowls filled with water and placed in different corners of the whelping room, but a fancy humidifier would probably do a better job.
We would not ever attempt to assist with delivery without a reliable flashlight on hand. The main reason for having a flashlight is that you may never know when your electricity goes out - you would then have to run all over the house looking for those Christmas candles as your bitch struggles to deliver her first pup. Many times the bitch requires trips outside in between the puppies and should she decide to whelp on one of these trips in the middle of the night, you will definitely be glad to have a flashlight available. During whelping, always have a flashlight and a towel with you every time you take the bitch outside.
Kennel lead
Weight scale for puppies
It is a wise idea to have a good sturdy kennel lead on hand for one of those trips outside. Even the best of brood bitches can occasionally decide to take off on you and have their next puppy in the bushes in the yard. Having her on lead every time she is taken out will prevent this from happening. We do not use a regular collar and a leash in such situations solely because kennel leads are much faster to put on and take off. Define a place for your lead and always put it there as soon as you take it off - leads have an annoying habit of disappearing when they are needed most - or have several of them.
Weight scale
Whelping supplies
This is another essential piece of equipment. We weigh the puppies as soon as they are born and dried and continue recording their weight daily for the first few weeks of their lives - this helps us evaluate the development and vitality of the newborns and also helps determine when to start supplemental feeding. Healthy Boxer puppies will gain steadily anywhere between 50 and 100 gr a day. We expect a healthy puppy to double his birth weight by the 10th day. We do prefer digital postal scale to any other. The model above is very reliable and can accurately measure anything in between 5 gr and 5 kg. It can also be adjusted to weigh in ounces. A less expensive option is a digital kitchen scale - most of them measure quite reliably and already come with a cup where you can put the puppies when you weigh them.
Weight scale for newborn puppies
With almost every weight scale you will need some kind of container where you will be putting the puppies during their weight measuring sessions. Healthy puppies are very active, very squirming and very uncooperative, so putting them on the flat weight scale platform is out of the question - they can crawl off faster than you can blink. We use a regular plastic tupperware container. The weight scale above can be adjusted to zero in so it doesn't measure the weight of the container together with the puppy. If your scale doesn't have this option, subtract the weight of the container from the recorded weight of the puppy. We would never think of specifying this separately if not for one occasion where a novice breeder phoned us saying his newborn Boxers measured at over 750 gr each: he simply forgot to subtract the weight of the container!
Clock for whelping room
You will definitely need to have a clock in your whelping room. We suggest recording times as whelping events progress - should anything go wrong (prolonged first stage or the bitch struggling for too long to push the puppy out), you will have all the whelping information ready for the veterinarian. It will also help you determine when the trouble begins. Usually we expect the first puppy to make his appearance within 24 hours after the bitch's temperature drop and we don't want to see the bitch having continuous fruitless contractions for anything over two hours. You will be more comfortable with the clock that you can see easily from anywhere in the whelping room. Hand watch won't do as you will need to sterilize your hands frequently.
Puppy box
Puppy box
Do not underestimate the importance of the small box. Should the bitch become restless or too active in between the puppies, you can place those already born in the puppy box while you safely help her deliver the next one. As soon as the next puppy is born and dried, put the whole litter back with their mom - we do not support removing the puppies from the dam until the whole litter is born as some breeders practice. We believe that puppies require warmth of their dam and especially the colostrum as soon as they are born. Puppy box is also very helpful during daily box cleaning - you simply put the little ones in, cover the box and proceed with washing and drying the whelping box while the babies wait for their bed to be ready in a safe and warm "puppy room".
Thermometer for dogs
Thermometer is a must for anybody who owns a dog, but especially a bitch that is heading toward the end of her pregnancy. Starting with day 55 from the first breeding we take the bitch's temperature three times a day. Hormone progesterone helps maintain the pregnancy and as soon as its level drops, the bitch enters the first labor stage. The drop of progesterone level is always accompanied by the drop of body temperature. First stage is easy to miss if you do not measure the bitch's temperature at least twice daily. Do not be alarmed at the lower than usual temperature during second half of the pregnancy - normally the bitch will measure at 37.4 - 37.8 C during the last few weeks. The drop you are looking for is the one when her temperature goes way below 37 degrees, usually 36.0 - 36.8 C. Thermometer is also useful for spotting after birth complications early and also for chilled puppies.
A good quality cardio stethoscope is a very helpful tool if you know how to use it properly. Counting the puppies' heartbeats before the whelping helps you determine approximate number of whelps. It is also useful in early diagnostics of various problems with the newborns. You can use it to check momma's heartbeat and also to check if there are any alive puppies left inside toward the end of the whelping. We also use it to check for heart murmurs with older puppies, although the last word on their cardiac status is always left to our veterinary cardiologist. Do not be tempted to buy the least expensive stethoscope you see - those cheap ones are usually totally useless. What you need is a midrange cardio stethoscope, there is usually a good choice of them in the medical supplies stores. Alternatively, medical students catalogues usually carry reasonably priced quality stethoscopes.
Sharp scissors
You will need a pair of good scissors (we prefer those made in Germany) if you are involved in dog breeding. Cutting up linens and gauze in preparation for whelping, bands for tail docking, ribbons of tape for posting the puppies' ears after cropping, as well as various bags and packages. We do not use this pair for cutting the tape OFF puppies' ears reserving this task for another pair which we aim to dull as soon as possible. We suggest investing into a reliable pair of scissors that are kept in top shape by regular visits to the sharpener.
Dull scissors
Maybe even more important than the pair of sharp scissors, dull ones have a special role. These are used for cutting the umbilical cords and they must be dull! Sharp scissors used on cords will produce a lot of unnecessary bleeding, while dull scissors will "chew up" the cord much in the manner the bitch would do herself. We usually buy a new pair after each litter, use them on cutting tape off the pups' ears, so that by the time we have our next litter, the scissors are reasonably dull. You will need to sterilize them by boiling right before whelping.
Hemostats for umbilical cord
You will need at least two pairs of surgical hemostats - these are purchased in the medical supplies stores. They are used for clamping the umbilical cord just before cutting it off - this helps minimize the bleeding. If placenta was not delivered with the puppy, clamp two hemostats on the cord and cut it in between with your dull scissors. Now you can safely dry and revive your puppy. When you are done with the newborn, gently pull on the hemostats attached to the mother's end of the cord - and placenta will be delivered. Sterilize your hemostats by boiling for a minimum of 20 minutes before whelping and wipe them with betadine or alcohol in between the puppies.
Rubber bulb syringes
Rubber bulb syringes for newborn puppies
You can use either the type shown above or a baby ear/nose syringe for sucking the fluids out of the puppy's mouth and throat as soon as he is taken out of his amniotic sack. These will not work on puppy's nose though - when presented with a puppy that is not breathing, forget the bulb syringes! You will have to embrace the puppy's face in between your lips and suck the fluids out - there is more force to this than to using a bulb syringe and sometimes such intervention is absolutely necessary to safe the pup's life. Grossed out yet? We never said breeding was all about fluff and roses. If grossed out easily or not ready to roll up your sleeves and get dirty, perhaps dog breeding is not for you.
Eye dropper
Eye dropper for Boxer puppies
It is a good idea to have a good quality eyedropper on hand - many times you will need to place a few drops of glucose or another medication onto a newborn puppy's tongue. There is no need to sterilize the eyedropper - just get a new one for the next litter. When buying an eyedropper, make sure the end is rounded and not sharp. Keep it clean and flash with alcohol in between the puppies.

Nursing supplies
Nursing supplies for puppies
Having several baby bottles and nipples is essential. Make sure your bottles are made of glass, and your nipples can be either rubber, silicone or latex. All of the nursing supplies must be sterilized every time before using. We always have fresh goat's milk on hand and use it to make our puppy formulas should the need arise. The best nipples for Boxer puppies are those made by Easyflo.

Metal tray for whelping equipment
It is a good idea to have several metal trays to keep all of your whelping items organized. There is no need to buy expensive surgical grade stainless steel trays - a good quality cookie/pie sheet will do just fine.
Grooming table in whelping room
You will definitely need to have a table right by the box. This time we used a grooming table to organize our whelping supplies - we especially enjoyed being able to put a roll of surgical towels onto the grooming arm.
Some "soft" ware
Whelping pads/blankies
Whelping pads and blankets for puppies
Providing you have a good washer and a dryer, you will need a minimum of four whelping pads. Make that six if you don't have access to a dryer. A good puppy blanket is made of very absorbent material, provides good traction, washes easily and stays put. If your blanket slides around the box and forms folds all over, a puppy can get caught under the pad and suffocate. Loose material is not good either - separate threads can wrap around the puppy's leg or neck and cause serious damage. Our puppy blankets are made of a soft blanket folded in four and stitched through with a lambskin pad stitched on - this provides traction for puppies and lets moisture go through the pad keeping the whelps dry. These blankets are easy to wash and dry and are very durable.

Hand towels
Hand towels for newborn puppies
Lots of towels! These are used for drying the newborns, and you will need a minimum of two towels per puppy. We use inexpensive kitchen cotton towels that can be washed at 90 degrees and even boiled. Wash them and iron them before whelping and store them under cover - we wouldn't want our towels to sit somewhere and collect house dust before we need them. Often times you will insert a corner of this towel into a newborn's mouth so do make sure they are as clean as possible. We usually wrap a stack of boiled and ironed towels into a surgical paper sheet and put the whole thing into a plastic bag, this way they stay perfectly clean. The towels can be reused after careful cleaning or simply replaced with the new ones for the next litter.

Flannel sheets
Flannel sheets for puppies
The more the better! Our bitches whelp on flannel sheets that get changed to puppy blankets when the whelping is complete. You will also use flannel sheets under the bitch's rear so that she doesn't stain the puppy blanket with lochia, you will use them if you need to bottle feed the puppies, you can use them to slowly warm up a chilled pup, etc. Incontinence pads are great to have as well.
Gauze sponges
Gauze sponges for whelping dogs
Having a pack of sterile gauze sponges on hand is a good idea. You will use them wrapped around your finger to dry inside the newborn's mouth. You will use them to stop bleeding from the umbilical cord and to apply gentle disinfectant on the cord's end. You will also use them to wipe your hemostats and scissors with bactericide solution in between the arrivals.
Cleaning products
Why cleaning is important
Whelping room disinfectant
Newborn puppies have fairly immature immune systems and cannot fight off bacteria if placed in dirty environment. Cleanliness is therefore very important, even though you will probably not be able to prevent parvo or herpes virus by maintaining simple hygiene. While you should not aim to completely sterilize the puppies' environment, washing the floors in the room where the puppies live, as well as their whelping box daily is a must.
Floor cleaner
Whelping room disinfectant
We use a hospital strength surface disinfectant/decontaminant with bactericidal, virusidal and fungicidal properties for washing the floors in the puppy room. We can also dilute it and use as a spray for scissors and hemostats during whelping. There are many similar products on the market, but make sure whatever you buy is a child-safe product. We definitely prefer this product over bleach and over many other toxic household cleaning products.
Whelping box cleaner
Whelping box all-natural cleaning spray
Whelping box is one of the places where harsh chemicals should not be allowed entry. We use a 100 % natural disinfectant spray for cleaning the box. It kills bacteria (effective against Salmonella, Staphylococci and Pseudomonas), mold and mildew using only 100% biodegradable plant extracts. The spray's main ingredient is Thymol present as a component of thyme oil and contains no synthetic fragrances, dyes, ammonia or chlorine. As the puppies grow and their immune systems mature, we use the cleaner less often giving the little ones a chance to meet all kinds of bacteria they will have to deal with once out of the box.
Hand cleansers
Whelping supplies
Well, here we have our antimicrobal hand wipes we use during whelping, our antiseptic skin soap containing 2% of Chlorhexidine Gluconate and a regular instant hand sanitizer which is basically "alcohol in jelly" type of solution and doesn't require rinsing. We use these every time before handling the puppies, especially if we just came in from outside. If we need to take the puppies to the vet, a jar of antimicrobal wipes goes along - we wouldn't want the puppies picking up something nasty in the hospital. You might use all three types of hand cleansers or opt for the one you prefer.
Paper towels, toilet paper, kleenex
Paper supplies for whelping
Paper towels, lots and lots of paper towels! You will use them for cleaning and washing, as well as wiping the whelping box after spraying with a cleaner. We use kleenex tissues for small cleanups. Toilet paper is best when it comes to wiping thermometer with rubbing alcohol every time after use, and you will use it two to three times daily, it's cheaper than cotton and does as good a job.
Baby wipes
Baby wipes for Boxer puppies
Small puppies have no sense of dignity - they poop all over themselves and onto each other, they burp, they get head on into mom's vaginal discharge, and nothing is as easy quick and efficient as a baby wipe for cleaning up those messy little guys. You will need lots of baby wipes, but make sure they are plain, no fragrance or other harsh substances added.
Surgical towel roll
Towel roll for whelping
We use these towels under the bitch during whelping to soak up fluids which usually come out in quantities sufficient for rescuing the crops in the whole drought exhausted country of Zimbabwe.
Wash cloths
Wash cloths for dog whelping
These will come in handy for washing the floor and the box. We suggest having several of them in different sizes - larger ones will be used for floors and the smaller ones for the whelping box. Replace before the next litter.
Waste basket
Waste basket
It is a smart idea to have one in the whelping room. Laundry basket would be helpful as well - you will have lots of laundry.
Other cleaning items
Cleaning supplies for kennels
You will need a bucket, a mop, a broom and a shovel (we use the small variety for sweeping up the whelping box), plenitude of plastic bags, etc
Medications & supplements
Alcohol and the disinfecting family
Rubbing alcohol, betadine and other disinfectants
You will use rubbing alcohol for wiping up the thermometer. Betadine comes in handy for wiping the hemostats and scissors in between the puppies. The "green thing" also known as Solutio Viridis Nitentis Spirituosa is one of the oldest and umbilical cord disinfectant, it is gentle but powerful.
K-Y jelly
KY Jelly
For lubricating your thermometer before measuring the bitch's temperature. You want to keep your K-Y sterile, so do not insert the thermometer into the tube! Squeeze a small amount of jelly onto a sheet of toilet paper and lubricate your thermometer. Use another sheet of toilet paper to clean the thermometer.
Potassium permanganate
Potassium permanganate
This is one of the essential disinfectants to have on hand. Dissolve a few purple crystals in water to make it slightly pink and use the resulting gentle natural disinfectant solution for washing up the bitch after whelping as well as washing her paws and breasts upon coming from the outside to the puppies.
Bach Rescue Remedy
Bach Rescue Remedy for dog whelping and puppies
A homeopathic preparation excellent for comforting and reassuring the future mom as well as the overly anxious breeder. Place 4 drops on tongue or dissolve in small quantity of water and sip. We have also successfully used this all-natural preparation on puppies in distress after a long and difficult delivery.
Glucose containing solutions
Glucose for bitch and puppies
For chilled or hungry puppies as well as for exhausted moms. Use ONLY as directed by your veterinarian. Subcutaneous injection of 40% glucose will lead to painful skin inflammations, so either dilute it with Ringers or use via IV route!
Calories/vitamins concentrate
Calories/vitamins concentrate
Used during especially difficult whelping to boost up the bitch's energy. Can be safely used for older puppies if needed. Excellent for shipping puppies to give them that little extra nutrition before the flight.
Injectable calcium solution
Injectable calcium solution for bitches
To be injected at the first signs of eclampsia or to help during delivery. Best administration route is intravenous, although deep i/m is possible. Use ONLY if and as directed by your veterinarian.
Calcium tablets
Calcium tablets for bitches
If uncomfortable with injectables, have some fast dissolvable calcium tablets on hand. These can save the life of your bitch should she start developing signs of eclampsia in the middle of the night when the vet office is closed.
Used for strengthening or restarting uterine contractions as well as for bringing milk in. A very powerful medication that can do miracles or can kill your bitch if used incorrectly or in the wrong moment. If not experienced in proper administration of oxytocin, use ONLY when and as directed by your veterinarian.
Other drugs
Whelping drugs
Many experienced breeders have other drugs on hand such as dopram and atropine to revive a stillborn puppy or no-spa and seduxen for the bitch. Please note that we DO NOT ADVOCATE CASUAL USE OF THESE OR ANY OTHER DRUGS. Use them ONLY when and as directed by your veterinarian.
Ringers solution
Ringers solution
Use lactated ringers solution to rehydrate the mother or the puppies should the need arise - via IV in the mother, s/c for the pups. Also can be used as base for glucose-water solution for weak puppies. Keep sterile (do not poke the bag with anything other than a sterile needle).
Pedialyte for neonatal puppies
Plain unflavored pedialyte can be used orally for rehydrating the bitch or the puppies if you are not comfortable administering lactated ringers solution intravenously. For puppies use a baby bottle, stomach tube or eyedropper. For the bitch - offer straight in her water bowl or mix with her regular drink.
Injectable vitamin concentrate
Injectable vitamin concentrate
Wonderful for boosting up tired bitches during and after whelping as well as those in the peak of their lactation. Use ONLY as directed by your veterinarian.
Fenugreek herb
Fenugreek herb for lactating bitches
One of the most powerful herbs that helps bring milk down in lactating bitches. Use capsules or make tea and mix with the milk drink your nursing bitch gets.
You will need several syringes of various sizes. We usually have 1 cc, 2 cc, 5 cc and 10 cc syringes available, as well as a huge 100 cc syringe for administering oral medications. Do not reuse syringes and make sure to cap them properly before disposal. We also keep a few IV lines on hand, as well as extra needles of different sizes. Consult your veterinarian on what syringes you should prepare.
More about syringes and injections
Injections and dogs
Ideally every breeder should know how to inject medications i/m, s/c and i/v. If you are just starting out, ask your veterinarian or a more experienced breeder to teach you how to use syringes. Be extra cautious when using any kind of medication on your dogs and always seek advice of your veterinarian on proper dosage and administration route. Keep syringes safely locked away from children.
Euthanasing agent
Euthanasing agent
If your veterinarian trusts you with a few cc of the euthanasing medication to use on puppies born with serious defects, label the syringe properly and store it safely locked up. Do not connect a needle to a syringe containing deadly medication. We do not recommend novice breeders use this drug. DO NOT bring such medication home if you have children or mentally incapable family members or if you cannot provide proper safe storage of the drug. If you do not have euthanasing drugs available to you and if you are presented with a fatal defect in the puppy, bring it to the vet as soon as possible to be humanely destroyed - ideally before it takes its first drink of milk.
Euthanasing equipment
These are a must if you euthanise puppies born with defects at home and are a necessary precaution measure. Many medicines used for euthanasing puppies are deadly to humans, and you must follow the proper routine for administering poisonous substances. Inject the needle of the butterfly into the puppy and connect the syringe containing medication to the opposite end of the devise. This technique prevents you from accidentally pocking yourself or the helper with the syringe containing poisonous substance. Remember most of euthanasing agents are extremely dangerous to people. Think twice before brining it home, especially if you have children (or a spouse who secretly dislikes you).
Essential extras
Phone in kennel room
Make sure you have a phone in your whelping room so that you don't have to leave the bitch alone should you need to call the vet in case of trouble.
Do have several pens on hand to record the whelping events. Pens are much like socks and kennel leads in their ability to disappear when they are most needed.
Note board
Nota board in puppy room
It is very useful to have a note board with the phone numbers of your veterinarian, nearest emergency clinic, 24 hours taxi service, your mentor, your priest, your psychiatrist and whoever else you might feel like phoning during whelping. It saves time if you don't have to run around the house madly trying to locate that Post-It with the necessary phone number as your bitch struggles with the puppy stuck half-in half-out.
Temperature spreadsheet
Temperature spreadsheet pre-whelping
We always use some kind of a spreadsheet taped above the whelping box to record the temperature of the bitch from day 55 from the first breeding until a few days post-whelping. On the vertical there are actual calendar dates and the days post-breeding recorded, and on the horizontal there are temperature values in Celsius. Simply mark the needed square to record the temperature reading. In case of trouble your vet will love you for your proper temperature record.
Whelping spreadsheet
Whelping records
After loosing our whelping notes on several occasions we now use standardized whelping spreadsheets where we record the details of each arrival, including his time of birth, presented position, birth weight, vitality status, gender, color and markings, and any other particulars. These sheets get stored in kennel files and are a very useful reference.
Puppy weight spreadsheet
Puppy weight record
These are used for recording puppies' weight measurements on a daily basis. We suggest weighing the puppies every morning and recording the weight on the sheet. Calculating daily gain is very useful for spotting possible puppy problems early. Anybody not gaining properly should get immediate attention. It is also a great reference tool to use with your future litters.
Nonessential extras:
TV, VCR, video tapes, books, food, water, coffee, champagne - for humans;
Vanilla ice-cream for the bitch;
Camera for taking those first photos;
Newspapers if you prefer to use them in the box during whelping, we don't;
Clothes that you will wear during delivery - make sure they are very clean, very comfortable and easy to wash;
A good washing machine for washing mountains of puppy blankets;
Window mesh - can be a very useful thing to have if you raise the litter during summer months.
Whelping suppliesNow that you have assembled your whelping kit with all of the necessary items in place, you can start waiting for the puppies! A very exciting and nervous time for most breeders, it is best spent knitting, watching movies, reading novels, thinking up names for the upcoming puppies or... writing articles... :)

We wish you all the best for your upcoming litter!

May the delivery be fast and easy, may the whelping start at 11 AM and finish by 3 PM, may your bitch be the most perfect mother of all, may all of the babies be fat and healthy, may there be no defects in the litter so that you don't have to do what we all hate doing, and may there be a puppy of your dreams in this litter - the most beautiful, the smartest, the healthiest, the most perfect Boxer you have been striving to produce!

Written by Alexandra Gav, DVM
Photos taken at Eurozone Boxer kennel
July 2004
©2004 European Boxer Zone
©2006 Eurozone Boxer kennel
Eurozone Boxer kennel - breeding high quality European Boxer dogs
Eurozone Boxer kennel - breeding high quality European Boxer dogs
Eurozone Boxer kennel

Eurozone Boxer kennel
since 1991
Canada - Hungary

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